Canning Stock Route: Day 4
Updated: Aug 19, 2019
Flora, fauna, friends and foes & Mungkatutu's Grave.
Day 4 Well 40 - Mungkututu's Grave- 438km
We left quite late (9am) & stopped at various wells- a few had camel bones, bleached white & arranged by human hands. So many places have names written, on stones or oil barrels or anywhere, really, that people can record themselves as having existed- I don’t understand it. We listened to a podcast on the way, about the permanence of personality, or lack thereof, which should have been interesting, but was a bit simplistic and trying to hard to be profound.
Well 42 had a sandy coloured dingo waiting there, who also seemed un-fussed by our presence, eventually trotting off when we got a little too near, carrying what looked like a small Goanna in its jaws, but came back again as we left.
We also saw another herd of calm camels, a Gould’s goanna, & a little mouse crossing the path. The wild flowers are getting more & more striking.
Having been told it was restored & in good condition, we stopped at Well 41 to shower in the lovely cool water.
Jade stared at me, I said “what?” He continued staring, obviously hearing something... Eventually I heard it too: the sound of vehicles. We were butt naked, so hurried to throw on some clothes before they arrived.
Four Toyota’s pulled in, 3 cruisers & a hilux- they all got out, clearly excited to see other people, & introduced themselves. They were sweet & friendly, but I must admit, I felt slightly disappointed to have company, & I knew Jade felt the same. They had been going a week, but didn’t know how to say Kunawarritji (it's pronounced 'Coo-Nah-War-Aht-Gee'), in fact they didn’t know much about the track at all, out of 8 people, only 1 seemed to know where they were going or where they’d been, even in response to questions like "is there anywhere you've stopped that you've particularly enjoyed?" they didn't give indication that they'd even noticed. We were quietly relieved when they said they were moving on, after a beer & a smoke, having not stopped to wash or splash water on their faces, which again, just seemed odd- these simple pleasures are what brings this place alive. I suppose people come here for different reasons, and who are we to judge. I just feel so glad Jade & I are alone together, able to strip off, enjoy the quiet, and feel the isolation of this beautiful place.
We continued on at around 4.30, perfect time to drive, with the golden hour setting in, i asked if we could stop quickly when I saw some particularly beautiful wild flowers by the road, but as the grasses, & purple & white flowers caught the golden light, the grasshoppers buzzed & birds sang, we couldn’t tear ourselves away, & spent about an hour there, soaking it all up. We got here- Tobin’s Grave, not long before 7, startling a camel. The moon is still so bright & full, it’s beautiful. I’m looking forward to exploring more in the morning.